May
19th was the day Van Cleef & Arpels chose to organize their
black tie cocktail accompanying the launch of the sumptuous exhibition
“Timeless Beauty”, spanning over 100 years of history. The exhibition is running
from May 20 to July 15 in the Museum of Contemporary Art of Shanghai covering
the two first floors for a total of 1200sq. meter space right in the heart of
People’s Square. I was pleased to be invited to the preview cocktail.
The
French Maison, created at the end of the nineteenth century by Charles Arpels
and Afred Van Cleef, is well known for
its innovative masterpieces and by its broad scope of inspirations. For
instance nature has always been a major theme for. Fascinated by the
never-ending transformation of the fauna and flora, the jewelers designed
numerous delicate flowers, blossoms and animals, real or imaginary bringing
vitality and poetry to the creations of the brand since the 1920s.
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Feuille Mysterieuse 2006
diamonds, rubies, |
 |
Bird of Paradise 1927
Platinum, Diamonds |
 |
Bird Cage 1935
Enamel, agate, rubies, gold, sapphire, coral, |
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Mystery Set Flowers 1937
Platinum, gold, rubies, diamonds |
Other
major inspirations of the Maison have always been oriental cultures. Van Cleef & Arpels counts numerous of
masterpieces with Indian influences, Egyptian, Syrian, Chinese, Japanese, Thai,
etc. “Timeless Beauty” features some of
them matching their original sketches that the guests could admire that night while
enjoying a glass of Perrier Jouet.
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Indian Inspiration Necklace 1971
Gold, carved emeralds, diamonds |
 |
Chinese Hat 1931
Gold |
 |
| Chinese Hat |
Another
big theme is femininity.
Femininity,
elegance and refinement… aesthetic values that have always been at the heart of
Can Cleef & Arpels. The Maison has become the favorite of the most
beautiful women and have adorned them on mythical occasions (coronations,
engagements, weddings, etc.). Among them, numerous of famous figures such as Marlene
Dietrich, Elizabeth Taylor, Princess Grace of Monaco, Princess Fawzia of Egypt,
Catherine Deneuve, etc…
Other
incredible yet decadent pieces.
 |
Farah Diba 1967
1541 stones including 1469 diamonds, 36 emeralds, 36 rubies, 105 pearls |
 |
Zip Necklace 1951
Yellow gold |
On a
personal point of view, I have been absolutely dazzled by “Timeless Beauty” and
really impressed by the production of the displays. It is incredibly well done,
sometimes really creative with the use of 3D effects, videos, noises, lighten
tubular structures and bubbles; esthetically matching perfectly the essence of
the brand. The flow of the event itself was flawless and well carried out. Many
celebrities, actors, political figures and socialites from both countries
showed up that night. The French Consul General Emmanuel Lenain honored us of
his presence as well as former Prime Minister Jean Pierre Raffarin and Minister
Jean Louis Borloo. On the Chinese side Fan Bing Bing, Gong Li came as well as
Zhang Jingchu, Tong Dawei, Wang Xueqi, Song Jia, Qin Lan, Pace Wu and few
others.
By
far the most impressive and creative exhibition I ever saw in MOCA and probably as good as
the retrospective Cartier did in the Forbidden City in 2009.
20th
May to 15th July 2012
